FAQs

1.  Coolant selection
2.  Coolant change interval
3.  Flushing the system
4.  Filling the system
5.   Aluminum vs. Cu/Br—which is better?
6.  Electrolysis
7.  Reducing coolant flow to improve cooling—does it?
8.  Antifreeze toxicity
9.   Causes of overheating
10. Why disconnect battery when changing radiator?
11. Why are your 2-row cores supposed to be better than a 3-row core? 
12. What makes Proliance Ready-Aire heaters better than OE?
13. What gives Ultra-Seal CAC’s and intercoolers long life?
14. What makes Proliance Ready-Rad radiators better than OE?
15. If I increase my engine HP, what can I do to improve engine cooling?
16. Can I run my car without the thermostat?
17. Why is the cooling system pressurized?
18. How do I know a Proliance Ready-Rad will fit my vehicle and cool like the OE?
19. What kind of additives do you recommend to add to the antifreeze?

Q—What kind of antifreeze should I use in my vehicle’s engine cooling system?

A—Antifreeze is available as a coolant concentrate, which is to be mixed 50/50 with water, or as a premixed coolant.  In refilling your cooling system, always use the exact coolant concentrate type or premixed coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in the vehicle owner’s manual.  Never mix traditional “green” coolants with the newer red, yellow, orange, etc. coolants and vice versa.  Never use tap water to mix with coolant concentrate.  Always use distilled, deionized or demineralized water, mixed with the manufacturer-specified coolant concentrate, or use the manufacturer-specified premixed coolant.

Q—How often should I change my antifreeze?

A—Antifreeze should be changed every two years or 30,000 miles.  All antifreeze coolants have two major components.  One is the antifreeze solution—usually ethylene glycol mixed with water—which will provide antifreeze protection virtually forever.  The other component includes the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricants.  These deplete with time and need to be replaced.  In addition, the products of corrosion that accumulate in the cooling system should be flushed out periodically to prolong the life of cooling system components.  It has been found that, for best results, even the so-called long-life or extended life coolants should be changed as recommended above.

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Q—How do I flush my cooling system?

A—After reading the CAUTIONS, follow the steps below.

CAUTION:  NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP WHILE THE ENGINE AND COOLANT ARE STILL HOT.  ONCE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, REMOVE THE CAP SLOWLY !!
CAUTION:  Used coolant can be corrosive and contain debris which will shorten the life of a replacement radiator.  Always completely drain and flush the entire cooling system, including engine block, heater and hoses before installing new coolant. 
CAUTION:  To avoid burning or scalding, always allow the coolant and radiator to cool completely before draining the cooling system.
DRAINING THE SYSTEM:  Drain the coolant from the system through the radiator drain cock, if so equipped, or by disconnecting the bottom (coolant outlet) hose from the radiator.
CAUTION:  Ethylene glycol coolants are extremely poisonous.  Do not allow coolant to sit around uncovered.    Drinking even small amounts of ethylene glycol can result in severe kidney injury and death.  Dispose of used coolant in accordance with government disposal regulations.

• Flushing of the cooling system should be done in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations, which may be found in the manufacturer’s repair and maintenance manuals and technical service bulletins.  Alternatively, to flush the cooling system, begin by filling the system with clear, drinkable water and continue by following the instructions below.
• Set the heater controls to high heat and run the engine until the thermostat opens.  The manufacturers of some vehicles recommend that the front end of the vehicle be raised during the flushing process (to raise the fill point higher than the heater core) in order to assure complete flushing.  Consult your vehicle owner’s manual or shop manual to determine if this is required.
• After the engine has idled long enough to open the thermostat, the radiator inlet hose will begin to feel warm, then hot.  As the coolant level goes down, add more water until the level stabilizes at just below the radiator filler neck, indicating that the system is full.
• Shut off the engine, allow engine and coolant to cool, and drain the system.
• Refill the system, run the engine and drain the system as in steps 1 through 4 above, two more times to totally remove old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
• If necessary, remove any water or coolant left in the coolant recovery bottle using a siphon or squeeze-bulb coolant tester.

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Q—What’s the best way to fill the cooling system to make sure it is full?

A—To fill your cooling system, follow the steps below.

• Refer to your owner’s manual to identify the proper coolant to be used in your vehicle and to determine the cooling system capacity.  For best results, install an amount of fresh full-strength coolant concentrate, of the type specified by the vehicle manufacturer, equal to half of the cooling system capacity.  Then continue to fill the system with distilled, deionized or demineralized water until full.  Commercially-available premixed solutions of the specified coolant may also be used, without water.
• The manufacturers of some vehicles recommend that the front end of the vehicle be raised during the filling process (to raise the fill point higher than the heater core) in order to assure that the system becomes full.  Consult your vehicle owner’s manual to determine if this is required.  With the vehicle in the same position (front end raised, if required), start the engine to circulate the coolant and set the heater controls to high heat.
• After the engine has idled long enough to open the thermostat, the radiator inlet hose will begin to feel warm, then hot.  As the coolant level goes down, add more distilled, deionized or demineralized water to keep full.  If a premixed solution was used to fill the system, add more premix.  When the coolant level has stabilized at just below the radiator filler neck, replace the radiator cap.  Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the FULL mark with a 50/50 solution of the recommended coolant concentrate and distilled, deionized or demineralized water, or with premixed coolant. 
• Check the system for leaks.  With the engine still idling, check the automatic transmission fluid level and add fluid if required.
• Drive the vehicle for a few miles, then stop and allow the engine and coolant to cool completely.  When the radiator has cooled, remove the pressure cap and check the coolant level.  Add distilled, deionized or demineralized water or premix as required to top off the system.  Check that the coolant recovery bottle is full to the FULL mark.  If required, add a 50/50 solution of the coolant concentrate specified by the vehicle manufacturer and distilled, deionized or demineralized water, or add the specified premixed coolant, to bring the level to the FULL mark,
• Check the coolant recovery bottle the next few times you drive the vehicle, and, if necessary, add enough coolant mix to bring it up to the FULL mark.

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Q—What makes a better radiator, aluminum or copper/brass?

A—Brazed aluminum radiators are made entirely of aluminum and are therefore much stronger than copper/brass designs, in which the copper fins are joined to the brass tubes, and brass tubes are joined to the brass header plate, by weaker solder.  As a result, brazed aluminum radiator cores are much more durable than copper/brass cores, being better able to stand up to the rigors of internal pressure, exterior corrosion and vehicle shock and vibration, which are often the causes of copper/brass radiator leaks.  While it is true that copper is a better conductor of heat than aluminum, the copper/brass radiator is not made entirely of copper.  Heat from the coolant must travel through brass tube walls, then through solder bonding, and finally, through the copper fins to the cooling air.  In contrast, a brazed aluminum radiator is aluminum throughout.  Most importantly, aluminum  radiators typically use wider, more efficient tubes than can be made in copper/brass, and fin gauges are typically thicker, resulting in overall better heat transfer performance.  The heat transfer performance of Proliance brazed aluminum radiators is engineered to be at least 20% better than the original copper/brass design, providing superior engine cooling performance.

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Q—What causes electrolysis damage to radiators?

A—Electrolysis damage to radiators results from improper grounding of electrical equipment in the vehicle, usually add-on equipment.  When such equipment is not properly grounded, stray electrical current from the equipment may find its way to ground through the electrolyte (coolant) in the radiator.  The result can be pitting of the radiator metal parts where they are grounded.  When electrolysis is suspected, radiator shops are prepared to test for stray currents and, by selectively activating various electrical equipment, to isolate the cause of the trouble.  The addition of proper grounding will usually cure the problem.

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Q--Can I improve cooling by installing a restrictor to slow the coolant flow through the radiator?

A—Absolutely not.  Slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator will increase the temperature drop through the radiator, lowering the bottom tank temperature, but raising the top tank temperature, which is not the way to improve cooling.

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Q--What should I do if I see a pet drinking antifreeze?

A-- Ethylene glycol coolants are extremely poisonous.  Do not allow coolant to sit around uncovered, as it actually tastes good to animals.  Within 24 hours after it is swallowed, ethylene glycol will reach the kidneys, where it crystallizes and shuts down the kidney function, resulting in a slow and very painful death.  If you see an animal drinking ethylene glycol, rush it to a veterinarian, who will administer intravenous injections of ethyl alcohol over several days.  The alcohol competes with the ethylene glycol for metabolism in the kidneys, with the result that the glycol is eliminated in the urine before it has a chance to crystallize, and the animal has a few pleasant days and survives with little more than a bad hangover.  Of course, there’s a similar danger for humans, particularly young children.  All of this is why you should never allow antifreeze coolant to sit around uncovered.  Always dispose of used coolants in accordance with government regulations.

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Q—My car is still overheating after installing a new radiator.  What could cause this?

A--Every Proliance Ready Rad ® replacement radiator has thermal performance equal to or better than original equipment.  Therefore, if overheating occurs, it’s likely to be caused by one of these overheating gremlins.  Before checking these out, observe the following CAUTIONS.

CAUTIONS!!  Temperatures in modern engine cooling systems can be well over 200 F.  Persons working around engine cooling systems should be cautioned to avoid scalding by allowing the engine and cooling system to cool before removing the radiator cap or working around cooling system components.  They should also be cautioned to beware of electric fans, which can start running without warning even after the engine has been shut off.  Safety glasses should be worn when working on any cooling system.  Finally, it should be warned that engine coolants are poisonous, regardless of type.  Used coolants should be collected and disposed of according to local ordinances.  Coolants must not be allowed to collect in open pans or puddles where animals or children can drink them, as they can cause death if not immediately treated.

1.  FAULTY TEMPERATURE GAGE OR SENSOR-- When the gage indicates overheating, are there any other signs of overheating, such as excessive heat, steaming or boiling over?  Has the engine been pinging, or knocking, as a result of detonating the fuel due to overheating? Has the engine been dieseling, or running on after the ignition is shut off, due to overheating?  If not, the sensor or gage may be faulty and should be checked out.  The temperature shown on a thermometer inserted through the radiator filler neck into the coolant after the thermostat has opened should agree fairly closely with that shown on the coolant temperature gage.

2. THERMOSTAT STUCK CLOSED--A stuck thermostat can be detected by starting the engine, allowing it to run, and feeling the radiator inlet hose, which should get hot as the thermostat opens.  If it does not, the thermostat is not opening.  The temperature at which the thermostat opens can be checked with a thermometer inserted into the coolant through the radiator filler neck.  When the thermostat opens, the coolant level in the radiator will drop and the inlet radiator hose will begin to get hot.  The temperature of the coolant entering the radiator should be close to or the same as the temperature rating of the thermostat.  If there is a big difference, the thermostat should be replaced.

3. COLLAPSED OUTLET HOSE--Cooling system hoses deteriorate with age.  If they become soft, they can collapse, especially on the radiator outlet side, which is the water pump suction side.  If the hose even partially collapses during operation, coolant flow will be reduced, resulting in overheating.  Hoses should be inspected for soft spots, collapsed sections or cracks, which can lead to leaking.

4.  FAULTY WATER PUMP-- Many overheating conditions are caused by a damaged or loose impeller within the water pump housing.  The pump shaft should be checked for leakage or excessive play where it exits the pump housing.  Either of these conditions is a sign of water pump wear.  Such wear inside the pump may result in low coolant flow rates and overheating.

5.  LOW COOLING AIR FLOW-- A radiator needs cooling air to be effective.  If the radiator is blocked by debris or by a piece of cardboard which was inserted to protect its face during installation, or by a license plate covering most of the grille opening, overheating will result.  Likewise, if no cooling air reaches the radiator because the electric fans were disconnected during installation or reconnected in reverse, overheating will result.  If the fan thermostatic switch is defective and does not activate the fan when coolant temperature rises, overheating will result.  All of these items are easily checked.  If the fan is not coming on during the overheating event, something is obviously amiss.  For mechanically driven fans, a thermostatic fan clutch could be the culprit, or a loose and slipping fan belt. 

6. LOW COOLANT LEVEL-- Very low coolant levels will result in overheating.  The coolant level should be checked to be at the level specified in the vehicle owner’s manual.  For GM vehicles using Dex-cool coolant, many GM dealers are recommending filling to the “HOT” level when the system is cold, in order to fully assure that the system is full.  Some Dex-cool systems can allow air to enter the cooling system if they are not kept absolutely full.  Such air reacts with the Dex-cool to form a sludge which can result in blocking of radiator and heater passages, resulting in overheating.

7.  BLOCKED EXHAUST GAS-- The energy in the fuel burned in a gasoline engine goes roughly 1/3 to useful work to move the vehicle, 1/3 to waste heat out the exhaust pipe, and 1/3 to heat removed by the engine cooling system.   If the exhaust system becomes partially blocked, perhaps by a faulty or collapsed muffler or catalytic converter, then less heat escapes with the exhaust, resulting in more heat to the cooling system, and possible overheating.  The vehicle exhaust should be checked for free flow.

8.  RECIRCULATED EXHAUST GAS-- Modern vehicles utilize some form of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) as a means of limiting emissions.  If the EGR valve is faulty and recirculated exhaust gas is excessive, it will contribute to overheating.  Any other condition which can introduce exhaust gas into the combustion air, such as by a faulty heat riser, can also lead to overheating.

9. CLOGGED RADIATOR TUBES--It’s important to determine if the customer has properly drained the cooling system, flushed it with fresh water, and refilled the system with the proper fresh new antifreeze coolant mixture as specified by the vehicle manufacturer.  If he did not, there is a good chance that unclean or improper antifreeze is partially clogging the radiator tubes.   An infrared thermometer may be used to scan the face of the radiator to look for cool spots which will indicate a clogged area.  The only cure for this clogging is draining the system, backflushing the radiator, flushing the system with clean water and refilling with the proper coolant. 

10. UNUSUAL OPERATING CONDITIONS-- If the overheating condition only occurs during unusual operating conditions, such as towing a heavy trailer, that could be the problem.  Towing with automatic transmissions results in high transmission oil temperatures, which must be cooled by the transmission oil cooler in the radiator outlet tank.  This higher heat load can lead to overheating.  Such towing usually requires an additional oil cooler to prevent overheating.  Increased heat loads caused by “souping up” the engine with various aftermarket add-ons, resulting in higher horsepower, will result in overheating at high power.  Added engine horsepower must be balanced by higher cooling system capacity.

Other, less likely, things that can cause overheating include a slipping or broken fan belt, a slipping fan clutch, a defective radiator cap, an engine whose timing is way off, dragging brakes and a blown head gasket.

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Q—Do I need to disconnect the battery before replacing my radiator?

A--Airbag sensors are often located at or near the radiator position.  As a result, some vehicle manufacturers require that the airbag system be disarmed prior to performing any radiator removal work, in order to avoid accidental deployment of the airbags, which could cause serious injury.  Always consult the vehicle manufacturer’s maintenance and repair shop manual or other vehicle specific repair manuals to determine if it is necessary to disarm the airbag system before proceeding with radiator removal.  In any case, always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before proceeding.  Tape the cable end to prevent accidental contact with the battery terminal during the repair work.

NOTE:  The radios of some vehicles will not operate after power has been disconnected unless an owner’s code is entered.  Be sure the code is available before disconnecting the battery cable.

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Q—Why are your 2-row radiator cores supposed to be better than a 3-row core?

A-- Most of us have learned to equate more rows with better cooling, so we question how the number of rows can be reduced and still end up with the same, or even better, cooling.  The answer to that lies in the increased length of fin contact of the 2-row X core over the 3-row HE core.  The length of the tube flat, in the direction of cooling air flow, on the ½-inch tubes used in the X core is 0.435 inches.  Since there are two tubes in the core depth, the length of fin contact for each fin convolution is 2 x 0.435 = 0.870 inches.  In contrast, the length of the tube flat on the 3/8-inch tubes used in the HE core is only 0.288 inches.  Since there are three tubes in the core depth, the length of fin contact for each fin convolution is 3 x 0.288 = 0.864 inches, slightly less than for the X core.  So the X core, with 0.870 inches of fin contact in a 2-row, 1 1/4 inch core depth, has slightly better heat transfer performance than the HE core with 0.864 inches of fin contact in a 3-row, 1 ½ inch core depth.  This has, incidentally, been confirmed by comparative wind tunnel tests.

In the example given above, the HE core and the X core have the same fin height, same tube spacing and same fin count.  When comparing the heat transfer performance of the X core to standard cores such as the S core, which has a greater fin height and tube spacing but a lower fin count (10 fpi for the S core versus 20 fpi for the X core), the 2-row X core is far superior to the 3-row S core.  Obviously, the greatly increased fin count accounts for most of this, but the lower fin height of the X core also helps because there is a shorter distance to the center of the fin than in the S core.  The highest temperature differential between the temperature of the fin and the temperature of the cooling air is right where the fin attaches to the tube.  This temperature differential decreases as distance from the tube increases.  Therefore, the temperature at the center of the fin, between two tubes, will be higher, and therefore provide higher heat transfer, for a low fin height core than for a high fin height core. 

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Q—What makes Proliance Ready-Aire heaters better than original equipment?

A—In most vehicles, when the heater controls are set to maximum heat, the hoses connected to the heater typically deliver coolant to the heater at 10 to 12 GPM, far more coolant flow than the 5 to 7 GPM required for optimum heat transfer performance.  The result, particularly if there are any gritty solids entrained in the coolant, such as aluminum oxide corrosion products, engine block core sand, etc., is erosion of the heater header, tube ends and tube-to-header joints.  Aluminum depends for its corrosion resistance on the development of a protective surface film (known as passivity).  Erosion corrosion occurs when this protective film is worn away and the metal is attacked at a rapid rate.  Soft metals such as aluminum are particularly susceptible to erosion corrosion, the results of which look somewhat similar to those of electrolytic corrosion in aluminum radiators.  Sacrificial erosion bridges, located right at the heater inlet, only postpone the inevitable.

Recognizing erosion corrosion as the true source of heater failures, Proliance engineers have developed and applied for patents for an aluminum heater that is better than original equipment in many ways.  First of all, each heater has a laminar flow restrictor located in the heater outlet tube for the purpose of reducing the flow rate to reduce the possibility of erosion, while at the same time maintaining sufficient flow for optimum heat transfer performance.  The restrictor is designed with smooth contours, rather than sharp edges, to eliminate the possibility of cavitation erosion corrosion in the outlet tube.  Secondly, a flow distribution baffle is provided over the entire inlet header of the heater.  This baffle, rather than simply deflecting the inlet coolant stream, evenly distributes the flow of coolant over the entire header surface, so that erosion of thin tube ends cannot occur.  Finally, the heater tubes are made of an aluminum core alloy having a braze cladding of alloy AA 4343 on the outside and a galvanically protective cladding on the inside.  This patented multi-layer tubing material uses three different corrosion resistance methods to obtain exceptional corrosion resistance.  The first of these utilizes the chemical difference between the inner clad alloy, AA 7072, and the core alloy, AMP 0336, to establish a galvanic potential between the two, thereby forcing the corrosion laterally, rather than directly through the inner clad layer.  The zinc-rich inner clad acts to provide anodic protection to the core alloy, much like the zinc sacrificial anodes on a steel ship hull.  The second method protects against exterior corrosion by the use of an outer clad layer which is anodic to the core alloy.  In addition, if corrosion does reach the core alloy, it will then encounter a band of aluminum-magnesium-silicon dispersoids, just under the braze clad layer.  These dispersoids are formed during brazing, creating a magnesium-depleted protective anodic zone in the core alloy layer, which promotes lateral corrosion instead of the more damaging form of pitting corrosion.  The third method includes the use of Titanium in the core alloy to form Titanium-Aluminum lamellar bands, which change the mode of corrosion attack from pitting directly through the core alloy to lateral exfoliation, thereby prolonging product life still further.  With this new design, Proliance is making available a long-life heater which has been well thought out and designed to provide the very best in corrosion protection and heater performance.

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Q—Why do Proliance Ultra-Seal ® charge air coolers last so long?

A—Typical all-brazed aluminum charge air coolers, or intercoolers, fail in a year or so because of high stresses in the area where the tubes, or charge air passages, meet the headers.  In operation these joints experience plastic deformation with changes in temperature and pressure inside the charge air cooler.  Just as a paper clip will break with repeated bending, these joints eventually fail after many cycles of operation, no matter how strongly they are made.  However, while a Proliance Ultra-Seal ® charge air cooler has a brazed aluminum core, the connection between the core tubes and the headers is made with high temperature silicone rubber grommets, which allow the charge air cooler tubes to expand and contract without creating tube-to-header stresses.  The result is a long-life charge air cooler that lasts many times longer than an all-brazed unit, often 10 years or more.

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Q—What makes Proliance Ready-Rad ® radiators better than original equipment?

A—Ready-Rad ® radiators deliver thermal performance that meets or exceeds OE specs, as proven by wind-tunnel testing. They have a deep-groove header with elliptical gasket to optimize the sealing surface and provide a better, longer-lasting crimp to securely hold the tank foot in place.  They have side pieces with a locking tab mechanism that secures them to the headers and a flexible portion to allow for expansion and contraction of the core in service.  They have no-leak threaded brass inserts in their plastic tanks and no-leak oil cooler flanges with retained elliptical gaskets, eliminating gasket squeeze-out.  All of these patent-pending innovations come to you in super-strong impact-absorbing packaging to provide you with a radiator far better than the original.

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Q—If I increase my engine horsepower, what can I do to improve engine cooling?

A—Most cooling systems have a margin of safety, so if you were to increase engine horsepower by, say, 20%, your system could probably handle that under most conditions.  However, if you were to make a more significant increase in horsepower, some changes would be needed.  Some things which would improve cooling performance include:

• Increasing the coolant flow rate, possibly by use of an upgraded water pump
• Increasing the face area of the radiator
• Removing obstructions to the flow of cooling air to the radiator
• Installing recirculation shields to prevent cooling air from bypassing the radiator
• Increasing the radiator fin count, being careful not to exceed about 16 fpi, which could restrict the cooling air too much
• Adding a row of tubes to the radiator (for example, changing from a two-row core to a three-row core), but being careful not to make the core so deep that air flow is restricted to the point where performance is actually diminished.

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Q—Can I run my car without a thermostat?

A--Well, first, let’s talk about the thermostat works.  Basically, when a cold engine is started the thermostat is closed, bypassing all or most of the coolant flow back to the engine rather than to the radiator.  As the engine runs, the coolant temperature rises until it gets near the temperature of the thermostat rating, for example, 190 degrees F.  At that point the thermostat begins to open, sending some coolant to the radiator.  If the coolant temperature continues to rise, the thermostat opens further, in an effort to keep the coolant temperature near the thermostat rating.  If engine power is reduced, let’s say to idle, and the coolant temperature falls below the thermostat rating, then the thermostat closes enough to maintain the temperature near the thermostat rating.  If power is increased to full power, the thermostat opens until it is wide open, and on a warm day, the coolant temperature may rise well above the thermostat rating.  The coolant temperature will continue to rise until it reaches a temperature at which the difference between the radiator average core temperature and the incoming cooling air is great enough to transfer the entire heat load to the air.  This then becomes a steady state condition.  Changing the thermostat to one with a higher temperature rating won’t have any measurable effect at full power and high ambient temperature conditions, since any thermostat will be wide open under those conditions.  Running without a thermostat in competition may be some benefit due to slightly increased water flow.  But running without a thermostat on the street is a bad idea because the engine will run much too cool for efficient operation

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Q—Why is a cooling system pressurized?

A—Raising the pressure of the coolant raises its boiling point, so pressurized cooling systems can operate at higher temperatures and can transfer heat more easily to the cooling air.  The boiling point of ethylene glycol is raised 3 degrees F for every psi (pound per square inch) increase in pressure cap rating.  While it is true that installing a pressure cap with a higher-than-original pressure rating could prevent a marginal cooling system from boiling over, the risk of damage or injury if any components fail at higher than design pressures is not worth the slight benefit which might be attained.

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Q—How do I know that a Proliance Ready-Rad ® will fit in my vehicle and cool like the OE?

A—Proliance engineers obtain sample OE radiators and design replacement Ready-Rads ® to the same mounting and connection dimensions as the original.  They then try initial production units in their intended vehicles to make sure that they will fit prior to releasing the model to the market. Comparison wind tunnel testing is also done to make sure that Proliance Ready-Rads ® meet or exceed the thermal performance of original equipment.

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Q—What kind of additives do you recommend for my vehicle’s cooling system?

A—Modern antifreeze coolants are fully formulated to provide, in addition to antifreeze protection, all of the ingredients needed to protect your cooling system from corrosion and to provide lubrication for the water pump.  No additives should be introduced into the cooling system because the chemicals in these additives may interact with those in the coolant and create chemical compounds that may clog or otherwise damage the system.

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